|
|
|
Materials and Equipment
Paints:
My preference is for Windsor & Newton artist quality (or Cotman students ) paints - I know what they do! I will either use tubes or pans according the subject being painted. Tubes are useful and easier however when mixing large washes.
I always use Artist Quality Paints I find that the colours glow.
Suggested Palette:
Essential Primary Colours:-
Warm:
A Violet Blue:- French Ultramarine Blue:
An Orange Red:- Cadmium Red, Vermilion, Permanent Red
An Orange Yellow:- Cadmium Yellow, New Gamboge, medium Yellow
A Green Blue:- Prussian Winsor, or Cerulean,
A Violet Red:- Alizarin Crimson, Madder Lake, Quinacridone Rose
Green Yellow:- Lemon Yellow, Cadmium Yellow
Others:
Additional useful Colours:-
Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, Burnt Umber, Cobalt Blue, Light Red, Rose Madder
Each supplier will have colours to suite my suggested list although they may go under different names!
All makes can be inter changeable although one make of paint can look alarmingly different in colour to another.
Paper:
A good quality paper is essential in water colour painting, do not be tempted to economise since it only makes painting more difficult. There are many different types of paper available in weights from 90 lb to 300 lb.
90 lb is a light weight paper that will cockle alarmingly when wet and I would not recommend this for anything other than for sketching.
140 lb is a reasonably priced paper, this will also cockle slightly so requires stretching before use. 300 lb is the most expensive but does not require stretching.
All paper will come in three types :-
The choice of papers available from the manufacturers can be overwhelming: they can be made from woodpulp or rag (cotton)
Books/pads: Normally paper will be in ring binder pads or tear off pads similar to a writing pad. Ideally it needs attaching to a board before painting.
Cut: Sheets of paper will be in imperial sized sheets which may then be cut down to the required size . This is probably the cheapest way to buy paper. It also needs attaching to a board before painting.
Blocks: Blocks are where the paper is cut to size and the sheets are glued together on all four sides except for a small area in which to slide a knife. Blocks containing 300 grms paper are ideal.
A good reasonably priced choice is Bockingford: I use Bockingford for demonstrating at classes.
Others are Saunders Waterford; Fabriano; Arches; Whatman
My personal preference is Arches and Whatman according to the subject being painted
Tip: Stretching:
Cut the sheet of paper smaller than the painting board, submerge it in a sink of water and completely soak it for no more than two minutes. Hold it up to drain the surface water, then lay it on a wooden board, stick all four sides using gummed brown paper, half over the paper half over the board. Leave flat to dry naturally, it will be as tight as a drum and remain flat when you paint on it. It is unstretched when cut off the board!
Paper tends to cockle when you put wet paint on it and the thinner the paper the more it cockles. Stretching will avoid this - see below.
Heavy papers (300 grms or more) may not need stretching and when used in a block are very convenient simply tearing off the finished painting.
Brushes:
Good quality brushes are also an essential part of the water colour artists tool kit. They can be round or flat: made from synthetic material or pure sable. Good value for money brushes are Pro Art Synthetic, series 101 or 007
I suggest you need:-
Other Equipment:
Mixing palette large flat area for mixing with at least 7 spaces for paint to be squeezed into. Do remember the small wells are not for mixing washes in but for squeezing the pure paint into from the tubes.
A large butcher's tray or white Pyrex dinner would also suit!
Board to fix paper to 300 mm x 400 mm (approx.) High density board is ideal, marine ply or block board are also good.
HB pencil: Masking tape and gummed paper: Paper towel: Rag: Water container - two plastic jars.
|
|
|
|